Now I know what you are thinking, seals are cute little things you see at Seaworld, they balance balls on their nose and throw things around. But it is all a show, they have you all fooled. Fur seals are in fact vicious little bastards. They are ugly and have big teeth and charge at you when they think you are getting too close for comfort, even when you are walking along innocently and don’t even see them hiding in the tussock grass.
So here I was just walking along to the cemetery to see Shackleton’s grave on South Georgia Island. These 2 fur seals decided that they didn’t want to let us pass and came charging towards us with their teeth bared and growling. The way to get them to stop is to stand your ground and yell, clap, wave your arms and generally try to appear bigger and more frightening than they are. It usually works and they back off. Anyway, I retreated and went around the long way but Jo was brave and charged on to the gate.
Then we decided to go to the cross which is on the other side of the bay. Now Ros did warn is about the vicious little seals guarding the steps to the cross and said, only go there if you are really keen. Along the way we met other people, the seals are a bit angry, but stand your ground and make some noise. One man was given a stick by the locals to protect himself. Undeterred, well Jo was – I went reluctantly, we headed off there anyway.
We managed to weave our wave through the gauntlet of seals, elephants as well as fur, fending off the occasional charge, until we arrived almost to the base of the stairs. Then the boys got a little stroppy, I think maybe by that time about 60 people had invaded their area they were well over it. So one charged us, but we scared it off, then another came and finally a third to it’s aid, we were surrounded! By this time I was using Jo as a shield and was ready to sacrifice her to the fur seal. She is trying her best to scare the things off and I am being the big hero hiding behind her.
You have no idea how hard it is to stand your ground and not run like hell away from there, apparently not a good plan because as ungainly as they look, they can move quicker than we can even on the land. By then I had decided that I was not going to try and proceed, so convinced Jo to retreat.
I was looking for help from other people but there were none in sight. So we backed off, and 2 of them were cool with that, but the third, who was in the direction that we wanted to go, wouldn’t concede. He kept coming at us even as we turned our backs and tried to leave. I can’t remember the last time I was that scared. Obviously we got out, but there was still some more seals to frighten me on the way back to the boat.
Sunday, December 7, 2008
The unbelievably big wide ocean
As I said this is my first really shipping adventure, and if the quality of the food keeps up it won’t be my last! Sorry, I digress...so I am looking out the porthole yesterday, surveying the ocean, looking for a whale or anything, and I notice what I thought was a peak on a distant chunk of land, but then the peak dissolves into the ocean and I realise that I am looking at the peaks of the swell. At this point I am overwhelmed with the whole vastness of this ocean. We are completely surrounded by water as far as I can see and obviously further. A quick look at the computer on the bridge confirms that we are in fact, well...in the middle of nowhere. The radar covers 12 nautical miles in all directions...and nothing but us. I can’t begin to describe how insignificant I feel in this huge body of water.
As if to confirm that we are in just a speck in this seascape, I am told that that bird that is swooping across the ocean out there that I thought was a seagull, is in fact an albatross with a wing span of 3m! I swear it didn’t look that big at all. Am I painting a picture of vastness for you?
Day 6 (23 Nov. 08) – there are loads of fur seals swimming around the area of the ship today, we are in an area that apparently is abundant in fish for feeding, so we are seeing lots of seabirds as well. We haven’t seen a whale yet, but I expect that it will look like a bathtub size version when we finally get to see one.
Day 10 (27 Nov. 08) – back at sea today and the swell is much bigger than the other day. I was standing up on the bridge and taking photos of the waves coming across the bow. The wind was coming from the starboard side (right) and consequently blowing the waves over the bow and even hitting the windows of the bridge which is 2 decks up from the bow.
As if to confirm that we are in just a speck in this seascape, I am told that that bird that is swooping across the ocean out there that I thought was a seagull, is in fact an albatross with a wing span of 3m! I swear it didn’t look that big at all. Am I painting a picture of vastness for you?
Day 6 (23 Nov. 08) – there are loads of fur seals swimming around the area of the ship today, we are in an area that apparently is abundant in fish for feeding, so we are seeing lots of seabirds as well. We haven’t seen a whale yet, but I expect that it will look like a bathtub size version when we finally get to see one.
Day 10 (27 Nov. 08) – back at sea today and the swell is much bigger than the other day. I was standing up on the bridge and taking photos of the waves coming across the bow. The wind was coming from the starboard side (right) and consequently blowing the waves over the bow and even hitting the windows of the bridge which is 2 decks up from the bow.
Rocking and Rolling
So far we have been at sea now for 6 days (23 Nov. 08). This is my first big ship voyage, I have been across the English Channel on the car ferry, but it is lame compared to this. We are currently sailing in the southern Ocean, or maybe the South Atlantic, a little hard to tell really and if the truth be known there is probably some random name of a sea that we sail through when not looking.
The ship has been doing some rocking and rolling. The swell seems to be 2-3m, which I am guessing is not real big at the moment, and I am expecting that the Drake Passage is going to be somewhat of a shock when we get there. That is the bit below Cape Horn off Sth America and has notoriously claimed many a ship over the centuries. Every meal so far the dining room has been full, there is 108 pax, 10 Peregrine staff, the 4 chefs, plus god knows how many Russians making this thing go forward and stay clean.
The Expedition Leader (EL) who job is stratospherically harder than anything I had to cope with, keeps expressing his surprise at the number of people turning up for meals, he was expecting more seasickness than we have had so far...but I am sure our time will come soon enough. The weather gods have been smiling so far.
Last night’s sleeping experience was somewhat of a challenge and everyone seemed to have similar stories at breakfast. Now, as you know I have been on plenty of overnight trains in Asia and thought that this experience would be somewhat similar...wrong! To give you some idea, the ship is lolling from side to side, at about 15 degrees on each big roll. Now imagine that my bunk is running across the ship. To help you imagine how it feels, think about laying on a see-saw. Then imagine the see-saw going up and down. Head up, roll, feet up, roll, head up...get the idea? I was sliding up and down the bed, but one lady told a story of her wearing a silk nightie, it sped up her journey up and down the bed due to the lack of friction. Unfortunately the rolling motion didn’t really help in the sleeping department.
The ship has been doing some rocking and rolling. The swell seems to be 2-3m, which I am guessing is not real big at the moment, and I am expecting that the Drake Passage is going to be somewhat of a shock when we get there. That is the bit below Cape Horn off Sth America and has notoriously claimed many a ship over the centuries. Every meal so far the dining room has been full, there is 108 pax, 10 Peregrine staff, the 4 chefs, plus god knows how many Russians making this thing go forward and stay clean.
The Expedition Leader (EL) who job is stratospherically harder than anything I had to cope with, keeps expressing his surprise at the number of people turning up for meals, he was expecting more seasickness than we have had so far...but I am sure our time will come soon enough. The weather gods have been smiling so far.
Last night’s sleeping experience was somewhat of a challenge and everyone seemed to have similar stories at breakfast. Now, as you know I have been on plenty of overnight trains in Asia and thought that this experience would be somewhat similar...wrong! To give you some idea, the ship is lolling from side to side, at about 15 degrees on each big roll. Now imagine that my bunk is running across the ship. To help you imagine how it feels, think about laying on a see-saw. Then imagine the see-saw going up and down. Head up, roll, feet up, roll, head up...get the idea? I was sliding up and down the bed, but one lady told a story of her wearing a silk nightie, it sped up her journey up and down the bed due to the lack of friction. Unfortunately the rolling motion didn’t really help in the sleeping department.
Falkland Islands
Day 5 (21 Nov 08) saw us off load onto the town of Stanley in the British Territory of the Falkland Islands. In a crazy way it was good to hear people speaking English and not Spanish, and be able to understand them, even if I have only been away for 10 days. They have their own FI currency which is essentially GBP, but they also accept USD, so I was right for money. We ate at a cafe that turned out to be where the locals ate, so we met a colourful lady called Rosie, who is the sister of the lady we met on West Point Island, Lil. We also managed a Strongbow cider which we had been planning on since we were going to the UK!
The morning involved a 1.5hr dash to a place called Gypsy Cove which had a beautiful white beach, but unfortunately was off limits because the Argentineans laid land mines there and on other beaches during that now famous 1982 conflict with the Brits (for those of you old enough to remember). The Magellanic penguins didn’t seem to be bothered by the prospect of being landmine victims, so about 30 were standing in a huddle on the beach. There was some war remanent stuff there including a big gun thing (that is a technical term!) We made the dash because Conny and Geoff had to be back to the ship at lunch time to join their kayaking adventure. Jo and I checked out the museum which was quite good.
The morning involved a 1.5hr dash to a place called Gypsy Cove which had a beautiful white beach, but unfortunately was off limits because the Argentineans laid land mines there and on other beaches during that now famous 1982 conflict with the Brits (for those of you old enough to remember). The Magellanic penguins didn’t seem to be bothered by the prospect of being landmine victims, so about 30 were standing in a huddle on the beach. There was some war remanent stuff there including a big gun thing (that is a technical term!) We made the dash because Conny and Geoff had to be back to the ship at lunch time to join their kayaking adventure. Jo and I checked out the museum which was quite good.
West Point and Saunders Islands
Our first shore excursion was to West Point Island which is to the Western side of the Falkland Islands group (20 Nov 08). They unloaded all of us in batches of 12 onto big rubber inflatable boats, commonly called Zodiacs. We trekked across the island about 20 mins to a rookery for rockhopper penguins and black browed albatross. It was amazing how close we could get without disturbing them. They were mostly nesting and just resting, some of the penguins were making excursions into the ocean.
The island is owned by an English couple called Rody and Lil. After we walked back to the jetty, they provided us with morning tea! Can you imagine whipping up tea, coffee and cakes for over 100 people who land on your island and go for a walk? They also have cows and sheep which was kinda funny out there in the middle of nowhere.
The island is owned by an English couple called Rody and Lil. After we walked back to the jetty, they provided us with morning tea! Can you imagine whipping up tea, coffee and cakes for over 100 people who land on your island and go for a walk? They also have cows and sheep which was kinda funny out there in the middle of nowhere.
The Ship
We finally managed to join our big ugly ship in Ushuaia at the bottom of Argentina. It is called the Akademik Ioffe and is a working Russian research vessel. She takes tourists to the Antarctic in the southern summer and the Arctic in the northern summer. Yes, I have added an Arctic trip to my ‘must do one day’ list. We have a twin cabin that is about 2m x 3m.
There are bunks beds, a sofa thing, loads of cupboard space, a desk and chair and a hand basin. The toilets and showers are shared with others on level 3, which seems to be mostly the western crew and staff. There is a cabin stewardess who comes and makes our bed every morning and leaves us chocolates on our pillows at night! This is much better than I was expecting.
Facilities on the ship include a bar, laundry, gift shop, gym and a dining room that can rival any 4 star restaurant. They are making a concerted effort to ensure that each and everyone of us leaves the ship at least 5kg heavier than when we boarded. Jo has just arrived in the cabin with afternoon tea, which is a freshly baked oat and sultana cookie, almost as good as the choc chip ones we have been getting on the other days. When I say freshly baked, I mean that it is still warm and a little gooey, it would do well to sit and set for 30 mins before they bring them to the lounge for general vacuuming by the pax, who cannot possibly be hungry.
Meals are an eating competition that unfortunately, I am participating in with more gusto than is required for someone who already has a bit of a spare tyre around my middle. Breakfast is a buffet, always a bad thing when I am around and then lunch and dinner are both 3 course affairs, and that is not counting the salad table that is self serve. Lunch is usually a lighter affair than dinner. Last night I had an awesome rack of lamb (apologies to my friends in Asia for whom lamb is a luxury), but in moments of self control I have generally been avoiding the dessert (it has nothing to do with the fact that my fav desserts are choc mousse and ice cream and these have not been on offer yet).
There are bunks beds, a sofa thing, loads of cupboard space, a desk and chair and a hand basin. The toilets and showers are shared with others on level 3, which seems to be mostly the western crew and staff. There is a cabin stewardess who comes and makes our bed every morning and leaves us chocolates on our pillows at night! This is much better than I was expecting.
Facilities on the ship include a bar, laundry, gift shop, gym and a dining room that can rival any 4 star restaurant. They are making a concerted effort to ensure that each and everyone of us leaves the ship at least 5kg heavier than when we boarded. Jo has just arrived in the cabin with afternoon tea, which is a freshly baked oat and sultana cookie, almost as good as the choc chip ones we have been getting on the other days. When I say freshly baked, I mean that it is still warm and a little gooey, it would do well to sit and set for 30 mins before they bring them to the lounge for general vacuuming by the pax, who cannot possibly be hungry.
Meals are an eating competition that unfortunately, I am participating in with more gusto than is required for someone who already has a bit of a spare tyre around my middle. Breakfast is a buffet, always a bad thing when I am around and then lunch and dinner are both 3 course affairs, and that is not counting the salad table that is self serve. Lunch is usually a lighter affair than dinner. Last night I had an awesome rack of lamb (apologies to my friends in Asia for whom lamb is a luxury), but in moments of self control I have generally been avoiding the dessert (it has nothing to do with the fact that my fav desserts are choc mousse and ice cream and these have not been on offer yet).
Who’s who?
I keep referring to ‘us’ in this blog, so I thought I should tell you who we are. There is me...of course, and Joanne, my long time house mate, friend, sanity provider and fellow traveller. Then on the Antarctic voyage we are travelling with Conny and Geoff, long time friends from Rovers, and if you remember they were in Thailand to see me in 2007, and we walked the Larapinta Trail together back in 2005. The other couple are Jeff and Ros. Jeff is a work mate of Jo’s and also was on the Larapinta trekking team.
After Antarctica we are all heading on separate adventures, Geoff and Conny are off to the Galapagos, Jeff and Ros are joining Jo & I on a tour in Patagonia. They have already tackled Peru before coming to the end of the world. After Patagonia Jo and I are off to sample some wines in Argentina and popping over to Rio de Janerio....because we can.
After Antarctica we are all heading on separate adventures, Geoff and Conny are off to the Galapagos, Jeff and Ros are joining Jo & I on a tour in Patagonia. They have already tackled Peru before coming to the end of the world. After Patagonia Jo and I are off to sample some wines in Argentina and popping over to Rio de Janerio....because we can.
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